Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine LeFlaive, Burgundy, FR, 2023

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Article code: WS 91 PTS

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Overview

2023 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc: ~89–90/100 consensus. 91 Wine Spectator, 89 Wine Advocate, 87–89 Burghound, 88 Vinous. Bright, refined and mineral-driven, with green apple, citrus, pear, hazelnut and crisp acidity.

Details

2023 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc — Professional Ratings

91/100 — Wine Spectator: Taut and linear, with lime blossom, citronella and green apple; mouthwatering, spicy finish. Drink now–2032.
89/100 — Wine Advocate: Pear, fresh bread, baking spice and hazelnut; medium-bodied, ample, fleshy and succulent.
87–89/100 — Burghound: Fresh apple, lemon rind and petrol; punchy, voluminous and nicely dry, with solid depth and persistence.
88/100 — Vinous (Neal Martin): Green apple and meadow aromas; crisp, fresh and malic, finishing with Granny Smith character.

Consensus: ~89–90/100. A particularly refined Bourgogne Blanc, sourced from vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, showing bright acidity, citrus/apple fruit, mineral tension and subtle oak.

Best drinking: approximately 2026–2030+; the 2023 has enough freshness and structure to develop further.

Many family businesses struggle to make it past the second generation. And then there’s the family Leflaive, which has been perfecting Chardonnay in Puligny-Montrachet since the United States was called British America. Founded in 1717, Domaine Leflaive is among the most venerable names in wine, but what that amounts to, practically, is three centuries of accumulated knowledge, all focused on working premier cru and grand cru vineyards. Brice de La Morandière, the current director and great-grandson of founder Joseph Leflaive, understands something crucial: you don't improve on centuries of winemaking by abandoning what works. He’s passionate in his commitment to biodynamic farming, to long natural fermentations, and to using only indigenous yeasts — not because it’s trendy, or even because “that’s how it used to be done,” but because the default setting here is to let the grapes speak for themselves, which means tending the land (some of the most exalted in all of the wine world) with almost devotional care. What separates Leflaive from producers stuck in tradition is their willingness to evolve infrastructure while preserving philosophy. Over the past decade, they undertook a thorough renovation of their wine storehouse and cellars, a commitment to the future that suggests they're thinking in terms of the next three centuries, not the next three quarters.