Chablis, Gerard Tremblay, "Fourchaumes", Premier Cru, Burgundy, FR, 2023

A 5th generation family estate, but Gerard Tremblay took over the Domaine when it was only 30 acres, and now it 100 acres as it is now, with 30 acres of first crus. Gerard has really taken the family’s reputation to a whole new level in a short time. His emphasis is on the vineyards and classical winemaking that allows the terroir and the grapes to express themselves through the wine. Farming is Lutte raisonnée, (sustainable farming) with a lot of care and plowing…. This extra work is done to continue to conserve the Terroir, and to give to their Chardonnay this very special personality due to the sub soil , limestone/ calcare (calcium) of the Kimeridgien. Kimeridgien is a highly prized soil type known for the precise and mineral characteristics. The soil is composed of fossilized and crushed oyster shells. Gentle pressing for no extraction of bitterness from seeds. The juice is put in small stainless cask, to insure temperature control, as well to allow the lees to stay in suspension. Alcoholic fermentation occurs naturally… very little batonage (stirring of the lees)…. It is done at cold temperature below 20°C. Malolactic fermentation is done also quietly, naturally. The main Chablis does not see any oak because the wine is delicate, mineral and precise. Any oak fermentation or aging would mask the liveliness that comes from the Kimeridgien soil. The First Cru and the Grand Cru get stainless (70%) and oak fermentation (30%). The oak comes to play because the wines are more powerful and can benefit from a hint of oak to achieve balance and texture. You don’t get a taste of oak at all, it is added just to give the desired, rich mouth feel. For all the wines it is essentially the same process, however, slow alcoholic fermentation and slow malolactic fermentation will be done later. The elevage or oak aging will be done on Frist Cru and Grand Cru, but each time when they taste the juice of the barrel, and oak become marked, they will change the juice from the stainless cask to barrel. This is a way to get some roundness and complexity but not to make an oaky grand cru.