Champagne “Reserve Extra Brut”, Leclerc Briant, FR, NV

This negoc house was founded in 1955 when Bertrand Leclerc married Jacqueline Briant. They were an early adopter of organic practices back in the 1960’s, and were one of the first to bottle single-vineyard Champagnes in the 1970’s. In the late 1980’s, Bertrand and Jacqueline’s son, Pascal, began integrating biodynamic principles and part of the production has been Demeter certified since 2003. Today, enologist Hervé Jestin, known for his biodynamics / bioenergetics oversees the wines of the house and its near 30ha of vines, plus another 20ha of organically farmed contract fruit.

This wine, making up 75% of production, is entirely from the 2020 vintage, and is dosed with 4.5 g/L, disgorged in April 2024. This blend of 40/40/20 Pinot Noir / Pinot Meunier / Chardonnay was native fermented in stainless and oak (the latter 20%) before going into bottle for 3 years on lees. This newly released wine is right and fresh with lemon, red and green apple, lightly toasted brioche across a vibrantly humming, stony base, with a well used layer of creamy lees to pad. So fresh, and a joy to drink now.