97 Points Wine Advocate
Realm's latest awfully clever move is to purchase the old Hartwell property, constituting the highest blocks above their already estate-owned Stags Leap District vineyard (the source for Moonracer). The vines planted here originate from budwood acquired by Bob Hartwell (the previous owner) from Dick Grace of Grace Family Vineyards in the 1980s. They feel that this label, made exclusively from these upper blocks, "pays tribute to the lineage and history of Napa Valley."
Deep purple-black colored, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Hartwell (Grace Clone) leaps from the glass with bold blackberries, crushed blackcurrants and wild blueberries scents plus wafts of black cherry compote, oolong tea, red roses and fragrant earth. The palate has beautiful restraint, revealing medium to full-bodied elegance with a very structured, firm, grainy texture and lively freshness, finishing very long with lots of mineral and earth sparks. There is so much latent power waiting to burst out of this wine, I wouldn't be surprised if it warrants a higher score when revisited in 10 years' time.
History
Hartwell XX is an estate-grown Cabernet Sauvignon from blocks at the very top of our property on Wappo Hill. This 2-acre parcel was planted in 1986 by Bob Hartwell, who used cuttings of Grace Family Vineyard’s Bosche clone he had acquired from his friend, Dick Grace. 1990 was the first vintage from those vines, and the early wines of Hartwell Estate Vineyards were made at the Grace winery. Realm was given the opportunity to purchase these blocks in 2020, having acquired nearly 20 acres from the Hartwell family in 2015.
As Hartwell’s winemaker, Benoit had made a separate wine from these upper blocks for many years. Although our inclination could have been to simply fold these blocks into Moonracer, Benoit knew from experience that the Cabernets from the upper and lower blocks are quite distinct. When Benoit had Scott taste the upper block wines going back to the 1990s, the difference was obvious. The Grace/Bosche clone is part of that, but the soils up top are also different, more homogenous with pure, fragmented sandstone. And because the top is relatively flat, the exposure is more uniform than the lower hillside blocks.
The 2020 purchase of acreage included the 2018 and 2019 wines from these blocks, and we will continue to make Hartwell XX – named in part for the year we purchased the land - as a separate wine. The blocks need to be replanted, and our plan is to expand a bit to create five one-acre blocks, each one planted to a different Napa Valley heritage clone - the second origin of the XX name. One acre will consist of the Grace/Bosche clone, preserved from clean budwood. There’s a legacy here we want to honor, a continuity that goes all the way back to the relationship between the Grace and Hartwell families.