100pts Jeb Dunnuck
The flagship 2021 The Absurd from this team (the blend is never specified) is another absolute monument of a wine from Realm. Incredible blue fruits, redcurrants, liquid violets, dark chocolate, and scorched earth all emerge on the nose, and it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a seamless, flawlessly balanced mouthfeel, beautiful tannins, and the purity, focus, and elegance paired with incredible levels of concentration that define the greatest wines of the 2021 vintage. Do your best to hide bottles for 4-5 years if you can, and it should hit prime time in 2030 or so and keep for over two decades.
98pts Vinous
The 2021 The Absurd is dense, plush and resonant, but also super-refined. Dark red cherry/plum fruit, rose petals, cinnamon and dried flowers all open in the glass, with silky, polished tannins that wrap it all together. This is an especially finessed version of Realm' flagship wine.
95pts James Suckling
A big and juicy wine with lots of fruit and integrated tannins that also has a freshness at the same time. Full-bodied with lots going on at the end. Flamboyant and slightly old school, but it’s cool. A selection of barrels that the owners like. Try after 2028.
History
Realm is, without question, the most ambitious winery in Napa Valley today. Realizing the perils of depending solely on purchased fruit, principals Scott Becker and Benoit Touquette have put together an enviable collection of estate vineyards, starting with Hartwell in Stags Leap, then Farella in Coombsville and most recently Houyi, ensuring that Realm will always have a dependable supply of estate fruit. It’s a bold move that has been matched by very few other players in Napa Valley and only one on a large scale that I can think of. I tasted the 2021s at Houyi, a spectacular site on Pritchard Hill that also affords striking views of the area. The wines are seriously impressive and also show a gradual move towards a style that favors a bit more vibrancy than in the past. "It was a year with very small berries and high tannins," Touquette explained. "We had to be careful to not extract too much."
